The allure of a fresh, vibrant hair color is undeniable. But what happens when you’re ready to move on from your current shade, especially a bold color like purple? Many people find themselves wondering, “Can I bleach my hair over purple?” The answer, unfortunately, isn’t a simple yes or no. It’s a nuanced question that requires a deep understanding of hair color, bleaching, and the potential risks involved.
Understanding Hair Color and Bleaching
To properly assess the feasibility of bleaching purple hair, it’s crucial to understand the fundamentals of hair color and the bleaching process. Hair color, whether natural or artificial, resides within the hair shaft. Bleaching, on the other hand, is a chemical process that lightens the hair by oxidizing the melanin, the pigment responsible for natural hair color.
The Hair Structure: A Quick Overview
Hair is composed of three main layers: the cuticle, the cortex, and the medulla. The cuticle is the outermost protective layer, composed of overlapping scales. The cortex, the middle layer, contains the pigment and provides strength and elasticity. The medulla, the innermost layer, is not always present, especially in fine hair.
How Hair Color Works
Hair dyes work by either depositing color onto the hair shaft (deposit-only colors) or by lifting the natural pigment and depositing artificial color simultaneously (permanent colors). Purple hair dye can fall into various categories, including semi-permanent, demi-permanent, and permanent. Semi-permanent colors simply coat the hair shaft, while demi-permanent colors penetrate slightly deeper. Permanent colors, as the name suggests, alter the hair’s structure more significantly.
The Bleaching Process Explained
Bleach, typically a mixture of hydrogen peroxide and an alkaline booster (like ammonia), works by opening the hair cuticle and penetrating the cortex. The hydrogen peroxide then oxidizes the melanin, effectively lightening the hair. The strength of the bleach is determined by the volume of hydrogen peroxide used, with higher volumes resulting in more significant lightening.
The Challenges of Bleaching Over Purple
Bleaching over purple hair presents several challenges. The most significant concern is the unpredictable color that can result from the interaction between the bleach and the remaining purple dye molecules.
The Risk of Unexpected Tones
Purple hair dye, especially if it’s a direct dye (meaning it doesn’t require a developer), often contains strong blue and red pigments. When bleach is applied, it can lift these pigments unevenly, leading to unwanted tones like green, pink, or even muddy brown. The intensity of the purple and the type of dye used will significantly impact the outcome. Faded purple is more likely to lift cleanly, while vibrant, freshly dyed purple poses a greater risk.
Hair Damage and Porosity
Bleaching, by its very nature, is damaging to the hair. It weakens the hair structure, making it more prone to breakage, dryness, and split ends. Bleaching over already colored hair, especially if the hair has been previously bleached or chemically treated, further increases the risk of damage. Purple dye can also make the hair porous, meaning that the hair shaft has gaps and holes, which makes it more susceptible to damage from bleach and less able to retain moisture.
Uneven Color Lifting
Even if you manage to avoid unwanted tones, there’s a high chance that the bleach will lift the color unevenly. This can result in patchy areas of different shades, requiring further correction and potentially leading to more damage. The presence of different shades of purple (for example, darker roots and lighter ends) exacerbates this issue.
Assessing Your Hair’s Condition
Before even considering bleaching, it’s critical to assess the current condition of your hair. This involves evaluating its strength, porosity, and overall health.
Determining Hair Porosity
A simple test to determine your hair’s porosity involves placing a strand of clean, dry hair in a glass of water. If the hair sinks quickly, it’s highly porous. If it floats on top, it’s low porosity. Hair that floats for a while and then slowly sinks has normal porosity. Porous hair is more vulnerable to damage from bleaching.
Evaluating Hair Strength and Elasticity
Gently stretch a strand of wet hair. If it stretches and returns to its original length, it has good elasticity. If it breaks easily, it’s weak and damaged. Bleaching should be avoided on hair that lacks elasticity.
Considering Previous Chemical Treatments
If your hair has been previously bleached, permed, or chemically straightened, it’s likely already weakened. Adding another chemical process like bleaching can push it past the breaking point. It’s generally recommended to wait several weeks or even months between chemical treatments to allow the hair to recover.
Alternatives to Bleaching
Before resorting to bleach, consider alternative methods for removing or lightening the purple hair dye. These options are generally less damaging and may be sufficient to achieve your desired result.
Color Remover Products
Color removers are designed to remove artificial dye molecules from the hair without lightening the natural pigment. They work by shrinking the dye molecules, allowing them to be washed away. While color removers are less damaging than bleach, they can still be drying, so it’s essential to follow up with a deep conditioning treatment. It is imperative to choose a color remover specifically designed for the type of dye used (direct dye vs oxidative dye).
Fading Techniques
There are several techniques you can use to gradually fade the purple dye. These include washing your hair with clarifying shampoo, using anti-dandruff shampoo (which can be quite stripping), and exposing your hair to sunlight (natural sunlight, in moderation, can help fade the color). These methods are gentle but may take several weeks to show noticeable results.
Vitamin C Treatment
Crushing vitamin C tablets and mixing them with shampoo can help lift the dye, particularly direct dyes. This method is relatively gentle and can be repeated several times if necessary. Mix crushed vitamin C tablets with a clarifying shampoo to make a paste. Apply to damp hair and cover with a shower cap for 30-60 minutes, then rinse thoroughly.
If You Choose to Bleach: A Step-by-Step Guide
If, after careful consideration, you decide to proceed with bleaching your hair over purple, it’s crucial to take precautions to minimize damage and achieve the best possible results. It is strongly advised to seek professional help from a qualified hair stylist. If you choose to do it yourself, proceed with extreme caution.
Gather Your Supplies
You’ll need the following supplies: bleach powder, developer (10 or 20 volume is recommended), a mixing bowl, a tint brush, gloves, an old towel, hair clips, and a deep conditioning treatment. Always use non-metallic bowls and utensils.
Perform a Strand Test
Before applying bleach to your entire head, perform a strand test to assess how your hair will react. Apply the bleach mixture to a small, inconspicuous section of hair and monitor the color change every few minutes. This will help you determine the appropriate processing time and identify any potential problems.
Prepare Your Hair
Do not wash your hair for at least 24-48 hours before bleaching. The natural oils will help protect your scalp from irritation. Detangle your hair thoroughly and divide it into sections using hair clips.
Mix the Bleach
Follow the instructions on the bleach packaging to mix the powder and developer. Use the recommended ratio and mix thoroughly until you achieve a smooth, creamy consistency.
Apply the Bleach
Wearing gloves, apply the bleach mixture to your hair, starting at the roots (if you have significant regrowth) or about an inch away from the scalp if your roots are already light. Work your way through each section, ensuring that all strands are evenly coated. Avoid overlapping previously bleached hair, as this can lead to breakage.
Monitor the Color
Check the color of your hair every few minutes. The goal is to lift the purple to a pale yellow or blonde shade. Do not leave the bleach on for longer than the recommended time on the packaging.
Rinse and Tone
Once your hair has reached the desired shade, rinse it thoroughly with cool water. Shampoo your hair with a color-safe shampoo and apply a toner to neutralize any unwanted tones. A toner can help cancel out yellow or orange hues, creating a more even and balanced blonde.
Deep Condition
Bleaching can leave your hair dry and brittle. Apply a deep conditioning treatment to replenish moisture and restore elasticity. Leave the conditioner on for at least 15-20 minutes before rinsing.
Post-Bleach Care and Maintenance
After bleaching, it’s crucial to adopt a hair care routine that focuses on hydration and damage repair.
Use Gentle Shampoos and Conditioners
Switch to sulfate-free shampoos and moisturizing conditioners to prevent further dryness. Look for products specifically designed for color-treated hair.
Avoid Heat Styling
Heat styling tools like flat irons and curling irons can exacerbate damage. Minimize their use and always apply a heat protectant spray before styling.
Deep Condition Regularly
Incorporate deep conditioning treatments into your routine at least once a week to replenish moisture and repair damage. Look for products containing ingredients like keratin, argan oil, or shea butter.
Trim Split Ends
Regularly trimming split ends will prevent them from traveling up the hair shaft and causing further breakage.
When to Seek Professional Help
Bleaching your hair over purple is a complex and potentially risky process. If you’re unsure about any aspect of the process, it’s always best to consult with a professional hair stylist. A stylist can assess your hair’s condition, recommend the best course of action, and ensure that the bleaching process is performed safely and effectively.
If you have extremely damaged hair, are aiming for a significantly lighter shade, or have had previous negative experiences with bleaching, seeking professional help is strongly recommended. Hair stylists have the knowledge, experience, and access to professional-grade products to minimize damage and achieve the desired results. They can also provide personalized advice on post-bleach care to keep your hair healthy and strong. A botched bleach job can lead to significant hair damage, which can be costly and time-consuming to repair. Investing in professional services can save you time, money, and frustration in the long run.
Can I bleach my hair directly over purple dye?
Bleaching directly over purple dye is generally not recommended. Purple dye, especially darker shades, contains strong pigments that can react unpredictably with bleach. This can lead to uneven lifting, resulting in patchy or muddy-looking results. Furthermore, the bleach might not effectively remove all the purple pigments, leaving you with a faded or distorted purple tone that’s difficult to correct.
Instead of directly bleaching, consider fading the purple dye as much as possible first. Use color-safe shampoos and conditioners, and avoid heat styling which can lock in the color. You can also try color-removing treatments designed to gently lift artificial pigments without the harshness of bleach. This will create a cleaner base for the bleach to work on, increasing the chances of achieving a more even and predictable outcome.
What are the risks of bleaching over purple hair dye?
The primary risk of bleaching over purple hair dye is the potential for unpredictable and undesirable color results. You might end up with orange, green, or even blue undertones, depending on the specific purple dye used and how well it lifts. The bleach might not be able to penetrate evenly, leading to a splotchy or uneven color lift that’s difficult to fix without professional help.
Another risk is increased damage to your hair. Bleach is already a harsh chemical, and applying it over previously dyed hair can further weaken the hair shaft. This can lead to dryness, breakage, and split ends. If your hair is already damaged from previous coloring or styling, bleaching over purple dye can exacerbate these issues and potentially lead to significant hair damage that requires extensive repair or even a drastic haircut.
How can I fade purple hair dye before bleaching?
There are several effective methods to fade purple hair dye before bleaching. Washing your hair with clarifying shampoo multiple times can help strip away some of the color molecules. Using hot water when washing your hair can also accelerate the fading process, although be mindful that hot water can also be drying to your hair. Avoid color-depositing shampoos and conditioners that are designed to maintain or enhance color vibrancy.
You can also try a DIY fading treatment using ingredients like baking soda or dish soap mixed with your shampoo. These methods are more abrasive than clarifying shampoo, so use them sparingly and follow up with a deep conditioning treatment to replenish moisture. Another option is to use a commercial color remover, which is designed to gently lift artificial color pigments without causing as much damage as bleach.
What level developer should I use when bleaching over purple?
The appropriate developer volume depends on your hair’s current condition and your desired level of lift. If your hair is already damaged or fragile, start with a lower volume developer like 10 or 20. These lower volumes lift less aggressively, minimizing the risk of further damage. However, they might require multiple applications to achieve the desired level of lightness.
If your hair is healthy and you’re aiming for a significant lift, you might consider a higher volume developer like 30. However, exercise caution when using higher volumes, as they can cause more damage, especially on previously dyed hair. It’s always best to strand test a small section of your hair first to assess how it reacts to the bleach and developer mixture. Never use a 40 volume developer on previously colored hair, as the risk of severe damage is significantly increased.
What color should my hair be after fading the purple, before bleaching?
Ideally, after fading the purple dye, your hair should be a very pale, pastel version of the original purple or close to its pre-dyed base color. The closer you get to a neutral or light base, the easier it will be to achieve your desired result with bleach and the less likely you are to encounter unwanted undertones. Aim for a faded lilac, lavender, or even a neutral blonde depending on the original shade of purple and your hair’s porosity.
If you can’t get the purple to fade completely, try to remove as much of the pigment as possible. Even a slightly tinted base is better than a vibrant purple, as it will allow the bleach to work more effectively. Remember that complete removal might not always be possible without damaging your hair, so prioritize hair health and adjust your expectations accordingly. A professional colorist can help assess your hair and recommend the best course of action.
What aftercare is necessary after bleaching over purple hair?
After bleaching over purple hair, intensive aftercare is crucial to restore moisture and prevent further damage. Immediately after rinsing the bleach, apply a deep conditioning treatment or hair mask specifically designed for damaged or color-treated hair. Leave it on for the recommended time, or even longer for extra hydration. Look for products containing ingredients like keratin, argan oil, or shea butter.
In the weeks following the bleaching process, continue to prioritize moisturizing and strengthening treatments. Use a protein-rich conditioner once a week to help rebuild the hair’s structure. Avoid heat styling as much as possible, and when you do use heat, apply a heat protectant spray beforehand. Consider using a leave-in conditioner or hair oil to provide ongoing hydration and protection. Regular trims will also help prevent split ends and keep your hair looking healthy.
Should I consult a professional before bleaching over purple hair?
Consulting a professional hair stylist before bleaching over purple hair is highly recommended, especially if you’re unsure about the process or if your hair is already damaged. A professional colorist can assess your hair’s condition, determine the best approach for lifting the purple dye, and minimize the risk of damage. They have the expertise and access to professional-grade products to achieve a more predictable and even result.
A professional can also perform a strand test to evaluate how your hair will react to the bleach and developer mixture. This allows them to adjust the formula and timing to achieve your desired level of lift without causing excessive damage. They can also advise you on the best aftercare routine to maintain the health and integrity of your hair. While DIY bleaching can be tempting, entrusting the process to a professional can save you from costly mistakes and potential hair disasters.