Brassy orange tones creeping into your blonde, highlighted, or even light brown hair? You’re not alone! This unwanted warmth is a common hair woe, but thankfully, you don’t always need a pricey salon visit to fix it. This comprehensive guide will walk you through everything you need to know to tone your brassy orange hair at home, saving you time and money while achieving the cool, balanced color you desire.
Understanding Brassy Orange Hair
Before diving into solutions, it’s crucial to understand why your hair turns brassy in the first place. This unwanted warmth is typically the result of underlying pigments being exposed during the lightening process.
Hair color contains a mix of pigments: blue, red, and yellow. When you lighten your hair, whether through bleaching or highlighting, you’re essentially stripping away some of these pigments. Darker hair contains more red and orange pigments, which are the most stubborn and often the last to go during the lightening process.
When you don’t lift enough pigment during the initial coloring, or when the color fades over time, these underlying orange and red tones become more visible, resulting in that dreaded brassiness.
Other culprits can contribute to brassy orange hair. Frequent washing, exposure to hard water, sun exposure, and heat styling can all cause your hair color to fade and reveal underlying warmth. Certain hair products containing sulfates can also strip away color and contribute to brassiness.
Assessing Your Hair: Identifying the Level of Brassiness
Determining the severity of your brassiness is the first step in choosing the right toning method. Is it a subtle hint of orange or a full-blown pumpkin spice situation?
Look closely at your hair in natural light. How intense is the orange tone? Is it evenly distributed throughout your hair, or is it concentrated in certain areas? The answers to these questions will help you select the appropriate toner strength and application method.
If the brassiness is mild, a gentler toning shampoo or conditioner might be all you need. For more stubborn orange tones, you’ll likely require a stronger toner.
Choosing the Right Toner: Color Theory Basics
Color theory is your best friend when it comes to neutralizing brassiness. Remember the color wheel from art class? To neutralize a color, you need to use its opposite on the wheel.
Since orange sits between yellow and red on the color wheel, you need a blue-based or blue-violet based toner to counteract it. Think of toners that are labeled as “ash blonde,” “cool blonde,” or “silver.” These usually contain the necessary blue and violet pigments to neutralize unwanted warmth.
It’s important to choose the right toner level (developer volume) as well. Toners are usually mixed with a developer, which opens the hair cuticle and allows the toner to deposit color. Common developer volumes are 10 volume and 20 volume. 10 volume is gentler and deposits more color, while 20 volume provides a slight lift and deposits less color.
For already lightened hair that’s just a bit brassy, a 10 volume developer is usually sufficient. If your hair is quite dark or you need a bit more lift, a 20 volume developer might be necessary, but be cautious as it can cause damage if overused.
When selecting a toner, consider your hair’s current level and desired result. If your hair is a level 7 (medium blonde) and you want to achieve a cool, ashy level 8 (light blonde), you’ll need a toner formulated for level 8 hair. Consulting a professional color chart can be helpful in determining your current hair level.
Essential Products for At-Home Toning
Toning your hair at home requires a few essential products to ensure a successful and safe process:
- Toner: Choose a toner specifically formulated for your hair level and desired result. Read reviews and consider the recommendations of other users with similar hair types and colors.
- Developer: Select the appropriate developer volume based on your hair’s condition and the level of brassiness you’re trying to correct. A 10 volume developer is generally safer for at-home use.
- Mixing Bowl and Applicator Brush: Use a non-metallic bowl and applicator brush to mix and apply the toner evenly.
- Gloves: Protect your hands from staining by wearing gloves throughout the entire process.
- Old Towel: Protect your clothing from toner stains by draping an old towel around your shoulders.
- Hair Clips: Use hair clips to section your hair for easier and more even application.
- Sulfate-Free Shampoo and Conditioner: These will help maintain your toned color and prevent future brassiness.
- Deep Conditioner: Toning can be drying, so a deep conditioner is essential for restoring moisture and shine.
Step-by-Step Guide to Toning Brassy Hair at Home
Now that you have the right products, let’s dive into the toning process. Follow these steps carefully for best results:
- Strand Test: Before applying toner to your entire head, perform a strand test. Apply the toner mixture to a small, hidden section of your hair (e.g., underneath the back of your head) and leave it on for the recommended processing time. This will allow you to see how the toner interacts with your hair and ensure you achieve the desired result without any surprises.
- Prepare Your Hair: Wash your hair with a clarifying shampoo to remove any buildup of products and oils. Do not condition your hair. Towel-dry your hair until it’s damp, not soaking wet.
- Mix the Toner and Developer: Carefully follow the instructions on your toner packaging to mix the toner and developer in the correct ratio. Use a non-metallic bowl and applicator brush.
- Apply the Toner: Section your hair into four quadrants using hair clips. Start applying the toner to the most brassy areas first, working your way towards the roots. Ensure that each strand is thoroughly saturated with the toner mixture.
- Process the Toner: Follow the processing time recommended on the toner packaging. Do not exceed the recommended time, as this can lead to over-toning and unwanted color results. Check the strand test section if unsure.
- Rinse and Condition: Once the processing time is complete, rinse your hair thoroughly with cool water until the water runs clear. Apply a deep conditioner to restore moisture and shine. Leave the conditioner on for the recommended time, then rinse again.
- Dry and Style: Gently towel-dry your hair and style as usual. Avoid using heat styling tools immediately after toning, as this can further dry out your hair.
Maintenance and Aftercare: Keeping Brassiness at Bay
Toning is not a one-time fix. Maintaining your toned hair requires consistent care and attention.
Use a sulfate-free shampoo and conditioner designed for color-treated hair. These products are gentler on your hair and will help prevent color fading.
Incorporate a purple shampoo or conditioner into your hair care routine. Purple shampoo contains violet pigments that neutralize yellow tones, helping to keep your blonde or highlighted hair bright and brass-free. Use it once or twice a week, or as needed.
Limit your exposure to hard water, which can deposit minerals that contribute to brassiness. Install a shower filter or use a clarifying shampoo regularly to remove mineral buildup.
Protect your hair from the sun by wearing a hat or using a UV protectant spray. Sun exposure can cause your hair color to fade and reveal underlying warmth.
Avoid excessive heat styling, as heat can damage your hair and cause color fading. When using heat styling tools, use a heat protectant spray.
Consider using a color-depositing conditioner in between toning sessions to maintain your desired tone. These conditioners deposit small amounts of pigment with each use, helping to keep your hair color fresh and vibrant.
Troubleshooting Common Toning Problems
Even with careful planning, things can sometimes go wrong during the toning process. Here are some common problems and how to fix them:
- Uneven Toning: This can happen if the toner is not applied evenly or if certain areas of your hair are more porous than others. To fix this, you can re-tone the uneven areas with a diluted toner mixture.
- Over-Toning: This occurs when the toner is left on for too long, resulting in overly ashy or grey hair. To fix this, wash your hair with a clarifying shampoo to help remove some of the toner. You can also use a moisturizing hair mask to add warmth back into your hair.
- No Change in Color: If you don’t see any noticeable change in your hair color after toning, it could be that the toner was not strong enough to neutralize the brassiness or that your hair was too damaged to absorb the toner properly. Try using a stronger toner or consulting a professional stylist.
When to Seek Professional Help
While at-home toning can be a convenient and cost-effective solution for minor brassiness, there are times when it’s best to seek professional help:
- Severe Brassiness: If your hair is severely brassy or if you’re trying to make a significant color change, it’s best to consult a professional stylist. They have the expertise and experience to assess your hair’s condition and recommend the best course of action.
- Damaged Hair: If your hair is damaged or over-processed, toning can further damage it. A professional stylist can assess your hair’s health and recommend treatments to repair and strengthen it before toning.
- Uncertainty: If you’re unsure about which toner to use or how to apply it, it’s always best to consult a professional stylist. They can provide personalized advice and ensure that you achieve the best possible results.
Exploring Natural Alternatives for Toning
While chemical toners are effective, some individuals prefer natural alternatives to minimize potential damage and exposure to harsh chemicals.
Apple cider vinegar (ACV) can help balance the pH of your hair and remove product buildup, which can contribute to brassiness. Dilute ACV with water (1 part ACV to 3 parts water) and use it as a final rinse after shampooing. Be mindful of the smell which fades quickly.
Lemon juice can lighten hair and reduce brassiness due to its citric acid content. However, it’s important to use lemon juice sparingly and with caution, as it can be drying and potentially damaging to the hair. Dilute lemon juice with water and apply it to your hair, then sit in the sun for a short period. Rinse thoroughly and follow with a deep conditioner.
Chamomile tea has gentle lightening properties and can help brighten blonde hair and reduce brassiness. Brew a strong pot of chamomile tea, let it cool, and use it as a final rinse after shampooing.
It’s important to note that natural alternatives may not be as effective as chemical toners for neutralizing severe brassiness, and results may vary depending on your hair type and color.
Final Thoughts: Achieving Your Perfect Tone
Toning brassy orange hair at home is achievable with the right knowledge, products, and techniques. By understanding the underlying causes of brassiness, choosing the appropriate toner, and following a consistent maintenance routine, you can achieve a cool, balanced hair color that you love. Remember to always prioritize the health of your hair and don’t hesitate to seek professional help when needed. With patience and persistence, you can say goodbye to brassy tones and hello to beautiful, toned hair!
Why did my hair turn brassy orange?
Brassy orange tones in hair typically occur when bleaching or lightening darker hair. The underlying warm pigments, such as red and orange, that are naturally present in darker hair become exposed during the lightening process. If the lightening isn’t sufficient or the correct toning techniques aren’t used afterwards, these warm tones will become visible, resulting in the dreaded brassy orange hue.
Factors contributing to brassiness also include hard water, which deposits minerals onto the hair, and using heat styling tools without heat protectant, which can damage the hair cuticle and further expose the warm pigments. Sun exposure and the use of certain hair products containing sulfates can also strip the hair of its cool tones and exacerbate brassiness over time.
What are the best toning products to use at home for orange brassiness?
For effectively toning orange brassiness at home, look for products specifically designed with blue or blue-violet pigments. Blue shampoo and conditioners are excellent for neutralizing orange tones, while blue-violet shampoos are better for yellow tones. Pay close attention to the product descriptions and reviews to ensure the product is suitable for your specific level of brassiness and hair color.
Another option is using a demi-permanent hair color in a shade with cool undertones. These products deposit color without lifting, providing a more intense toning effect. Always perform a strand test before applying any toner or color to your entire head to ensure you achieve the desired result and avoid unwanted color changes. Remember to follow the product instructions carefully to prevent over-toning or damage.
How often should I use toner on my hair to combat brassiness?
The frequency of toning depends on the severity of the brassiness and the product you’re using. For blue shampoo or conditioner, you can typically use it once or twice a week, alternating with your regular shampoo and conditioner. Overusing blue shampoo can lead to a dull or ashy appearance, so monitor your hair closely and adjust the frequency accordingly.
Demi-permanent toners usually provide longer-lasting results, but they should only be applied every 4-6 weeks to avoid over-processing and potential damage. If you notice brassiness reappearing sooner, consider using a blue shampoo in between toner applications to maintain the desired tone. Protecting your hair from factors that contribute to brassiness, such as hard water and heat styling, will also help extend the time between toning sessions.
What is a hair gloss and how can it help with orange tones?
A hair gloss is a semi-permanent color treatment that enhances the shine and tone of your hair. Unlike permanent hair color, glosses don’t lift the hair’s natural pigment, making them a gentle option for correcting brassiness and adding vibrancy. They work by depositing color onto the hair shaft, neutralizing unwanted tones and creating a smoother, more polished appearance.
For orange tones, choose a hair gloss with blue or violet pigments to counteract the warm hues. Glosses come in various forms, including in-salon treatments and at-home kits. They are typically applied to clean, damp hair and left on for a specific amount of time before rinsing. Hair glosses are a great option for achieving a subtle yet noticeable improvement in your hair’s color and overall health.
Can I use purple shampoo on orange brassiness?
While purple shampoo is generally designed to neutralize yellow tones in blonde hair, it can offer some benefit for mild orange brassiness. The violet pigments in purple shampoo can help counteract the orange undertones, but it may not be as effective as blue shampoo, which is specifically formulated for stronger orange tones.
If your brassiness is more yellow than orange, purple shampoo might be sufficient. However, if you’re dealing with a pronounced orange hue, opt for a blue shampoo or a blue-violet shampoo for a more targeted and effective result. Consider the specific shades in your hair and choose the product accordingly for optimal toning.
How can I prevent brassy orange hair from returning?
Preventing brassiness involves addressing the factors that contribute to it in the first place. Using a water filter on your showerhead can help remove minerals that cause buildup and contribute to brassy tones. Regularly using a clarifying shampoo can also help remove mineral deposits, but be mindful not to overuse it as it can strip the hair of its natural oils.
Incorporating heat protectant products into your styling routine before using heat tools will shield your hair from damage and prevent the exposure of warm pigments. Additionally, using sulfate-free shampoos and conditioners will help preserve your hair color and prevent it from fading, thus minimizing the appearance of brassiness.
What if at-home toning doesn’t work to remove orange brassiness?
If at-home toning methods prove ineffective in removing orange brassiness, it may be time to consult a professional hairstylist. Persistent brassiness can indicate a more complex color correction issue that requires expert knowledge and specialized products to address effectively. A stylist can accurately assess the underlying cause of the brassiness and create a tailored treatment plan.
They may recommend professional-grade toners, color correction techniques, or even a partial re-lightening to remove the underlying warm pigments before applying a toner. Attempting further at-home treatments could potentially worsen the problem or cause damage to your hair, so seeking professional help is the best course of action in such cases.