Brassiness: the bane of many blonde and highlighted hair enthusiasts. That unwanted yellow or orange tinge can transform a beautiful, cool-toned blonde into something far less desirable. But fear not, brassiness is a common problem with a readily available solution: toner. This comprehensive guide will delve into everything you need to know about choosing the right toner to banish brass and restore your hair to its former glory.
Understanding Brassiness and Why It Occurs
Before we dive into the world of toners, it’s crucial to understand what brassiness is and why it appears in the first place. Brassiness is the result of underlying warm pigments, typically yellow, orange, and red, becoming visible in lightened hair.
Several factors contribute to brassiness:
- The natural undertones of your hair: Everyone’s hair has natural underlying pigments. Darker hair tends to have more red and orange undertones, while lighter hair leans towards yellow. When hair is lightened, these underlying tones are exposed.
- The lightening process itself: Bleach lifts the hair’s natural color, but it doesn’t always lift all the warm pigments evenly. This can leave behind residual warmth.
- Environmental factors: Sun exposure, hard water, chlorine, and even certain hair products can contribute to brassiness over time. These elements can strip away cool tones and reveal the warm pigments beneath.
- Incorrect hair care: Using shampoos and conditioners that aren’t designed for color-treated hair can also lead to brassiness.
The Magic of Toner: Neutralizing Unwanted Warmth
Toner is a product designed to neutralize unwanted undertones in hair. It works by depositing pigment onto the hair shaft, effectively canceling out the brassy tones.
Toning products contain pigments that are opposite on the color wheel to the unwanted tones. For example:
- Purple toner neutralizes yellow tones.
- Blue toner neutralizes orange tones.
- Green toner neutralizes red tones.
The key is to choose a toner that contains the pigment needed to counteract the specific brassy tones present in your hair.
Choosing the Right Toner: A Step-by-Step Guide
Selecting the appropriate toner can seem daunting, but by following these steps, you can confidently choose the best product for your hair.
Step 1: Identify Your Hair’s Brassy Undertones
The first step is to accurately identify the specific brassy tones you’re dealing with. Is your hair more yellow, orange, or a combination of both? This will determine the pigment you need in your toner.
- Mostly Yellow: If your hair is predominantly yellow, a purple-based toner is your best bet.
- Mostly Orange: If your hair has a noticeable orange tint, a blue-based toner will work wonders.
- Yellow-Orange Mix: If you’re seeing a mix of both yellow and orange, you might need a toner with a violet-blue base or consider using a purple toner followed by a blue toner.
Step 2: Understanding Toner Strengths and Types
Toners come in various strengths and formulations. Understanding these differences is essential for achieving the desired results.
- Demi-Permanent Toners: These are the most common type of toner and are generally considered the gentlest option. They deposit color without lifting the hair’s natural pigment and typically last for around 4-6 weeks. Demi-permanent toners are a good choice for overall toning and color correction.
- Semi-Permanent Toners: These toners are even gentler than demi-permanent ones. They deposit color only and fade more quickly, usually within a few washes. They are best for subtle toning and maintaining color between salon visits.
- Permanent Toners: These toners contain ammonia and peroxide, which allows them to both lift and deposit color. They are typically used in salons for more dramatic color changes and are not recommended for at-home use unless you have extensive experience with hair coloring. Permanent toners can be damaging to the hair if not used correctly.
Step 3: Selecting a Toner Shade
Once you know the type of toner you need, you’ll need to choose a specific shade. Toners are often labeled with numbers and letters that indicate the level and tone of the product.
- Level: The number indicates the lightness or darkness of the toner, typically ranging from 1 (black) to 10 (lightest blonde). Choose a level that is close to your current hair color.
- Tone: The letter indicates the tone of the toner. “A” usually stands for ash (cool), “V” for violet, “B” for blue, and “G” for gold (warm). Select a toner with a tone that will neutralize your brassy undertones. For example, if you have yellow tones, look for a toner with a “V” or “A” in the shade name.
Pro Tip: When in doubt, it’s always better to choose a toner that is slightly lighter than your hair color. You can always add more toner, but it’s difficult to remove excess color.
Step 4: Consider Your Hair’s Condition
The condition of your hair is an important factor to consider when choosing a toner. If your hair is damaged or overly porous, it will absorb toner more quickly and unevenly, which can lead to unwanted results.
- Damaged Hair: If your hair is damaged, opt for a demi-permanent or semi-permanent toner, as these are gentler and less likely to cause further damage. Consider using a protein treatment or deep conditioner before toning to help repair and strengthen your hair.
- Healthy Hair: If your hair is in good condition, you have more flexibility in terms of toner choice. You can use a demi-permanent or even a permanent toner, depending on the desired results.
Step 5: Patch Test is Essential
Before applying toner to your entire head, it’s crucial to perform a patch test to check for any allergic reactions or unwanted color results. Apply a small amount of toner to a discreet area of your hair, such as behind your ear or on an underside section. Leave it on for the recommended time, then rinse and dry. If you don’t experience any adverse reactions and you’re happy with the color, you can proceed with the full application.
Recommended Toners and Products
While the specific toner you choose will depend on your individual hair needs and preferences, here are a few popular and effective toners that are widely recommended:
- Wella Color Charm T18: This is a classic toner that is beloved for its ability to neutralize yellow tones and create a beautiful, cool-toned blonde. It’s particularly effective for pale blonde hair.
- Redken Shades EQ Gloss: This demi-permanent gloss is known for its gentle formula and ability to add shine and vibrancy to the hair. It comes in a wide range of shades, including those designed to neutralize brassiness.
- Manic Panic Virgin Snow: While Manic Panic is known for its vibrant colors, Virgin Snow is a toner specifically designed to remove yellow tones and create a pure, white blonde.
- Pravana ChromaSilk Vivids Pastel Toner: This toner is perfect for achieving pastel shades and can also be used to neutralize brassiness. It is a gentle formula that is suitable for damaged hair.
In addition to toners, several other products can help combat brassiness:
- Purple Shampoo: Purple shampoo contains violet pigments that neutralize yellow tones. Use it once or twice a week to maintain your cool-toned blonde.
- Blue Shampoo: Blue shampoo is designed to neutralize orange tones. Use it if you’re struggling with orange brassiness.
- Color-Depositing Conditioners: These conditioners deposit pigment onto the hair while conditioning and hydrating it. They are a great way to maintain your desired tone between toning sessions.
Applying Toner at Home: A Step-by-Step Guide
If you’re comfortable applying toner at home, here’s a step-by-step guide to help you achieve the best results:
- Gather Your Supplies: You’ll need toner, developer (if required), a mixing bowl, a tint brush, gloves, a towel to protect your clothing, and a timer.
- Prepare Your Hair: Make sure your hair is clean and dry. It’s best to tone freshly washed hair, as this will allow the toner to penetrate more effectively.
- Mix the Toner and Developer: Follow the instructions on the toner packaging to mix the toner and developer in the correct ratio.
- Apply the Toner: Put on your gloves and use the tint brush to apply the toner evenly to your hair, starting at the roots and working your way to the ends. Make sure to saturate all of the hair that you want to tone.
- Process the Toner: Leave the toner on for the recommended processing time, as indicated on the packaging. Keep a close eye on your hair during processing to ensure that it doesn’t become too ashy or purple.
- Rinse and Condition: Once the processing time is up, rinse the toner out of your hair thoroughly with cool water. Follow with a color-safe conditioner to hydrate and nourish your hair.
- Style as Usual: Style your hair as usual and enjoy your newly toned, brass-free locks!
Tips for Maintaining Your Tone and Preventing Brassiness
Once you’ve successfully toned your hair, it’s important to take steps to maintain your color and prevent brassiness from returning.
- Use Color-Safe Shampoo and Conditioner: These products are formulated to be gentle on color-treated hair and will help prevent color fading.
- Limit Sun Exposure: Prolonged sun exposure can cause brassiness. Wear a hat or use a UV protectant spray when spending time outdoors.
- Avoid Hard Water: Hard water can deposit minerals onto the hair, which can contribute to brassiness. Consider using a water filter or a chelating shampoo to remove mineral buildup.
- Minimize Heat Styling: Excessive heat styling can damage the hair and cause color to fade. Use heat protectant spray and avoid using high heat settings.
- Touch Up Regularly: Depending on how quickly your hair grows and how often you wash it, you may need to touch up your toner every 4-6 weeks to maintain your desired tone.
By following these tips, you can keep your hair looking beautiful and brass-free for longer.
When to Seek Professional Help
While toning at home can be a cost-effective and convenient way to combat brassiness, there are certain situations where it’s best to seek professional help.
- Severe Brassiness: If your hair is severely brassy or unevenly toned, it may be difficult to achieve the desired results at home. A professional hairstylist can assess your hair and formulate a custom toning plan to correct the color.
- Damaged Hair: If your hair is severely damaged, it’s best to leave the toning to a professional. They can use gentle techniques and products to minimize further damage.
- Unsure of What to Do: If you’re unsure of what toner to use or how to apply it, it’s always best to consult with a professional. They can provide personalized advice and help you avoid costly mistakes.
Toning is a powerful tool for banishing brassiness and achieving your dream hair color. By understanding the causes of brassiness, choosing the right toner, and following proper application techniques, you can confidently maintain your cool-toned blonde or highlighted hair at home. However, don’t hesitate to seek professional help when needed to ensure the health and beauty of your hair.
What exactly is brassiness in hair, and why does it happen?
Brassiness refers to the unwanted warm, yellow, or orange tones that can appear in blonde, highlighted, or lightened hair. It’s a common concern for those who lighten their hair because the lightening process exposes the underlying warm pigments (red and orange) naturally present in the hair. These warm tones become more visible as the cooler, ashier tones from the dye fade over time.
Several factors contribute to brassiness. Washing hair frequently, using hot water, exposure to UV rays from the sun, and chlorine from swimming pools can all strip away the cool tones and reveal the warm undertones. Even the minerals in hard water can deposit onto the hair, contributing to a brassy appearance.
How does purple toner work to counteract brassiness?
Purple toner works on the principles of color theory. Purple and yellow are opposite each other on the color wheel, meaning they neutralize each other. When you apply purple toner to brassy hair, the purple pigments deposit onto the hair shaft, counteracting the yellow tones and restoring a cooler, more balanced hue.
The intensity and effectiveness of the toner depend on several factors, including the concentration of purple pigment in the product, the porosity of your hair (how well it absorbs the toner), and the length of time you leave it on. It’s crucial to follow the instructions carefully to avoid over-toning and ending up with a purple tint.
Are there different types of purple toners, and which one is right for me?
Yes, purple toners come in various forms, including shampoos, conditioners, masks, and direct dyes. Purple shampoos and conditioners are typically used for maintenance, helping to prevent brassiness from developing or to subtly tone already slightly brassy hair. They are generally gentler and can be used more frequently.
Purple masks and direct dyes contain a higher concentration of pigment and are designed for more intense toning. These are suitable for addressing more significant brassiness. Choosing the right type depends on the severity of your brassiness and your desired level of toning. If you have only slight brassiness, a shampoo or conditioner might suffice. For more noticeable brassiness, a mask or direct dye may be necessary.
How do I choose the right shade of purple toner for my hair color?
The right shade of purple toner depends on the level of brassiness and the lightness of your hair. For very light blonde or platinum hair with minimal brassiness, a lighter violet or lavender toner is often sufficient. These will gently neutralize any yellow tones without making the hair appear too ashy or gray.
For darker blondes or hair with more pronounced orange or yellow tones, a more pigmented, deeper purple toner may be necessary. The key is to carefully observe your hair’s current tone and choose a toner that effectively neutralizes the specific color you’re trying to correct. It’s always best to start with a less pigmented toner and gradually increase the intensity if needed.
How often should I use purple toner to maintain my hair color?
The frequency of purple toner use depends on several factors, including how quickly your hair gets brassy, the type of toner you’re using, and your washing habits. For purple shampoos and conditioners, you can typically use them 1-2 times per week as part of your regular hair care routine. This will help maintain your desired tone and prevent brassiness from developing.
For more intense toners like masks or direct dyes, it’s best to use them less frequently, typically every 2-4 weeks or as needed. Overusing these products can lead to over-toning, resulting in a dull, ashy, or even purple tinge. Pay attention to your hair’s appearance and adjust your usage accordingly.
Can I use purple toner on brown hair with highlights?
Yes, you can use purple toner on brown hair with highlights to counteract brassiness in the highlighted sections. However, it’s essential to be cautious and choose a toner specifically formulated for highlighted hair or one with a lower pigment concentration. The brown portions of your hair may absorb the purple pigment, potentially resulting in an unwanted ashy or purple cast.
To avoid this, consider applying the toner only to the highlighted areas, carefully avoiding the darker sections. You can also opt for a purple shampoo or conditioner designed for highlighted hair, which typically contains less pigment and provides a more subtle toning effect. Always test the product on a small, inconspicuous section of your hair before applying it to your entire head.
What are some common mistakes to avoid when using purple toner?
One common mistake is leaving the toner on for too long, which can result in over-toning and a purple or ashy tint to the hair. Always follow the product’s instructions carefully and start with a shorter processing time, gradually increasing it as needed. It’s also crucial to use a quality purple toner designed for your hair type and level of brassiness.
Another mistake is using purple toner too frequently, which can dry out the hair and lead to build-up. Overuse can also cause the hair to become dull and lifeless. Remember to use moisturizing conditioners and hair masks to keep your hair hydrated and healthy, especially when using toner regularly.