Orange hair. It’s the bane of many a DIY hair enthusiast’s existence. You envisioned a beautiful blonde or a vibrant brown, but instead, you’re staring back at a brassy, orange reflection. So, the burning question is: can you simply dye over it? The answer, unfortunately, isn’t a straightforward yes or no. It depends on several factors, which we’ll explore in detail.
Understanding Why Your Hair Turned Orange
Before diving into solutions, it’s crucial to understand why your hair ended up with an orange hue in the first place. This knowledge will inform your next steps and prevent future mishaps.
The Underlying Pigment Problem
All hair contains underlying pigments. These pigments, primarily melanin, determine your natural hair color. Darker hair has more melanin, while lighter hair has less. When you lighten your hair, you’re essentially removing these pigments. However, different pigments lift at different rates. Red and orange pigments are the most stubborn and are often the last to go during the bleaching process.
When you don’t lift your hair light enough, or if your hair isn’t able to withstand further processing, these warm pigments remain, resulting in orange or brassy tones. This is especially common when trying to go blonde from a darker base.
Incomplete Lightening
The most common cause of orange hair is simply not lifting the hair light enough. If you’re aiming for a blonde shade, you need to lift past the orange stage to a pale yellow or even a platinum blonde, depending on your desired end result. Stopping too soon leaves those pesky orange undertones exposed.
Box Dye Disasters
Box dyes are notorious for creating unwanted tones. They often contain a high volume of peroxide, which can lift the hair quickly but unevenly, leading to banding and brassiness. The pre-mixed formulas may not be suitable for your specific hair type or starting color, resulting in unpredictable outcomes.
Hard Water Woes
Hard water, rich in minerals like calcium and magnesium, can also contribute to orange tones. These minerals can deposit on the hair shaft, causing buildup and interfering with color absorption. They can also react with hair dye, leading to brassiness.
Sun Exposure and Product Buildup
Prolonged sun exposure can fade hair color and reveal underlying warm tones. Similarly, certain hair products can cause buildup that contributes to brassiness. Products containing sulfates or silicones are often culprits.
Assessing Your Hair’s Condition
Before attempting any color correction, it’s vital to assess the health of your hair. Dyeing over damaged hair can exacerbate the problem, leading to breakage, dryness, and further color inconsistencies.
Porosity Check
Hair porosity refers to its ability to absorb and retain moisture. High porosity hair has a damaged cuticle layer with raised scales, allowing moisture to enter and exit quickly. Low porosity hair has a tightly sealed cuticle, making it difficult for moisture to penetrate. Medium porosity hair falls somewhere in between.
To assess your hair’s porosity, try the strand test. Place a few strands of clean, dry hair in a glass of water. If the hair sinks quickly, it has high porosity. If it floats on the surface, it has low porosity. If it sinks slowly, it has medium porosity.
High porosity hair is more susceptible to damage from chemical processes and may require protein treatments to strengthen the cuticle. Low porosity hair may require heat to help the hair dye penetrate the cuticle.
Elasticity Test
Hair elasticity is its ability to stretch and return to its original length without breaking. Healthy hair has good elasticity. Damaged hair has poor elasticity and is prone to breakage.
To test your hair’s elasticity, gently stretch a wet strand of hair. If it stretches significantly and returns to its original length, it has good elasticity. If it breaks easily or doesn’t stretch much, it has poor elasticity.
Hair with poor elasticity needs strengthening and conditioning treatments before any further coloring. Protein treatments and deep conditioning masks can help improve elasticity.
Signs of Damage
Look for visible signs of damage, such as split ends, breakage, dryness, and a rough texture. If your hair is already severely damaged, it’s best to consult a professional stylist before attempting any color correction. They can assess the extent of the damage and recommend a course of treatment.
Strategies for Dyeing Over Orange Hair
Once you’ve understood why your hair turned orange and assessed its condition, you can explore different strategies for correcting the color. The best approach will depend on the severity of the orange tones and your desired end result.
Toning with Blue or Purple Shampoo
For slight orange or brassy tones, a blue or purple shampoo might be sufficient. These shampoos contain pigments that neutralize unwanted warmth. Blue shampoo is designed to counteract orange tones, while purple shampoo is better for yellow tones.
Use blue shampoo if you have noticeable orange. Purple shampoo is better for pale yellow to yellow orange.
Apply the shampoo to wet hair, focusing on the areas with the most orange. Leave it on for the recommended amount of time (usually 3-5 minutes), then rinse thoroughly. Be careful not to overuse these shampoos, as they can sometimes leave a blue or purple cast on the hair.
Using a Toner
A toner is a semi-permanent hair color that neutralizes unwanted tones. It’s a more potent solution than blue or purple shampoo and can effectively combat more stubborn orange tones.
Toners come in various shades, including blue-based, violet-based, and green-based. Choose a toner that complements your desired end result. For orange tones, a blue-based toner is generally the best choice.
Mix the toner with a developer, following the manufacturer’s instructions. Apply the mixture to damp hair, focusing on the areas with the most orange. Leave it on for the recommended amount of time, then rinse thoroughly.
Always perform a strand test before applying toner to your entire head to ensure you achieve the desired result.
Color Correction with a Demi-Permanent Dye
For more significant orange tones, a demi-permanent dye might be necessary. Demi-permanent dyes deposit color without lifting the hair’s natural pigment. This is a gentler option than permanent dye and can be effective for neutralizing orange tones.
Choose a demi-permanent dye that is one or two shades darker than your desired end result. Look for dyes with cool undertones, such as ash brown or cool blonde, to counteract the warmth of the orange.
Apply the dye to dry hair, following the manufacturer’s instructions. Leave it on for the recommended amount of time, then rinse thoroughly.
Again, a strand test is crucial to avoid any unwanted surprises.
Going Darker
If you’re not opposed to going darker, dyeing your hair a shade or two darker can effectively cover up the orange tones. Choose a color that is within your natural color range to minimize the risk of further damage.
Browns with cool undertones, such as ash brown or chocolate brown, are good choices for neutralizing orange tones. Avoid shades with warm undertones, such as golden brown or auburn, as these can accentuate the orange.
Bleaching Again (Proceed with Extreme Caution)
If your goal is to achieve a lighter shade, you may need to bleach your hair again. However, this should only be done if your hair is in good condition and you are confident in your ability to perform the process correctly.
Bleaching is damaging to the hair, and repeated bleaching can lead to breakage and other problems.
If you decide to bleach again, use a low-volume developer (10 or 20 volume) and monitor your hair closely. Stop immediately if you notice any signs of damage, such as breakage or excessive heat.
After bleaching, you will likely need to tone your hair to neutralize any remaining warmth.
Professional Help
If you’re unsure about how to correct your orange hair, or if your hair is severely damaged, it’s always best to consult a professional stylist. A stylist can assess your hair’s condition, determine the underlying cause of the orange tones, and recommend a course of treatment that is tailored to your specific needs.
Professional color correction can be more expensive than DIY methods, but it can save you from further damage and ensure you achieve the desired result.
Preventing Future Orange Hair
Once you’ve corrected your orange hair, it’s essential to take steps to prevent it from happening again.
Proper Lightening Techniques
If you’re lightening your hair at home, take the time to learn proper lightening techniques. Use a high-quality bleach and developer, and follow the manufacturer’s instructions carefully.
Always perform a strand test before applying bleach to your entire head.
Avoid using high-volume developers, as these can cause more damage. Instead, use a lower volume developer and process your hair for a longer period of time.
Using a Color-Safe Shampoo and Conditioner
Use a shampoo and conditioner that are specifically designed for color-treated hair. These products are formulated to be gentle on the hair and help prevent color fading.
Avoid products containing sulfates, as these can strip the hair of its natural oils and cause color to fade more quickly.
Protecting Your Hair from the Sun
Sun exposure can fade hair color and reveal underlying warm tones. Protect your hair from the sun by wearing a hat or using a hair product with UV protection.
Using a Water Filter
If you have hard water, consider using a water filter on your showerhead. This can help remove minerals that can cause buildup and contribute to brassiness.
Regular Deep Conditioning Treatments
Deep conditioning treatments can help keep your hair healthy and hydrated, which can prevent color fading and brassiness. Use a deep conditioning mask once or twice a week.
Remember, patience is key when correcting orange hair. It may take multiple attempts to achieve the desired result. Don’t be afraid to seek professional help if you’re unsure about how to proceed.
Why is my hair turning orange after bleaching?
Bleaching lifts the natural pigments from your hair. The degree to which it lifts depends on your hair’s original color and the strength of the bleach. Orange tones are commonly encountered when the hair wasn’t lifted enough to a pale yellow before toning. This usually happens because the bleach wasn’t left on long enough, the developer wasn’t strong enough, or your hair simply couldn’t handle a longer processing time without significant damage.
The underlying pigments of dark hair are typically red and orange. When bleaching, these warm tones are the last to go. If you stop the process too early, you’re left with visible orange tones instead of a blank canvas for your desired color. Think of it as layers being removed; the cooler tones come off first, revealing the warmer shades underneath.
Can I dye over orange hair with a dark color?
Yes, you can dye over orange hair with a darker color, but the results might not be exactly as expected. Depending on the depth and tone of the dark color you choose, the orange undertones could still influence the final shade. For example, if you choose a dark ash brown, the orange may counteract the ash and result in a warmer, less cool-toned brown than desired.
Consider the color wheel. Orange is opposite blue, so using a color with strong blue undertones (like an ash brown or deep violet) is essential to neutralize the orange. However, the darker the starting color of your hair, the more likely the orange will be successfully covered. A dark brown or black will generally obscure the orange without significant issues, although slight warmth might still be present in certain lighting conditions.
What kind of toner do I need to get rid of orange hair?
To get rid of orange hair, you’ll need a blue-based toner. Blue is directly opposite orange on the color wheel, making it the most effective at neutralizing the unwanted warm tones. The specific shade and strength of the toner will depend on the intensity of the orange in your hair and your desired final color.
A toner with blue pigments will deposit those cool tones onto your hair, effectively cancelling out the orange. Look for toners specifically designed to combat brassiness and orange tones. Read the product instructions carefully and perform a strand test before applying the toner to your entire head to ensure you achieve the desired result without over-toning.
How long should I wait before dyeing over orange hair?
Ideally, wait at least a week or two before dyeing over orange hair, especially if you’ve just bleached it. Bleaching is a harsh process that can damage your hair, making it more porous and susceptible to further damage from subsequent coloring. Allowing time for your hair to recover helps prevent further breakage and ensures the color adheres properly.
During this waiting period, focus on deep conditioning treatments to replenish moisture and protein in your hair. This will help strengthen your hair and prepare it for the next coloring process. If you’re impatient, consider using a color-depositing conditioner or mask in the meantime to help tone down the orange without causing further damage.
Will permanent or semi-permanent dye work better to cover orange hair?
Both permanent and semi-permanent dyes can work to cover orange hair, but the best choice depends on your desired outcome and the condition of your hair. Permanent dye penetrates the hair shaft and provides a more lasting color change, making it a good option for completely covering orange or achieving a significant color transformation. However, it can be more damaging than semi-permanent options.
Semi-permanent dye coats the hair shaft and gradually fades over time. It’s a gentler option that’s suitable for toning down orange tones or adding richness to your existing color without significant damage. If your hair is already damaged from bleaching, a semi-permanent dye might be the better choice. Choose a semi-permanent color with blue or violet undertones to effectively neutralize the orange.
Can I use purple shampoo to fix orange hair?
Purple shampoo is primarily designed to neutralize yellow tones, not orange. While it might provide a very slight reduction in orange brassiness, it’s generally not strong enough to completely eliminate orange from your hair. It’s a better maintenance product for blondes who want to keep their hair from turning brassy yellow, rather than a solution for correcting significant orange tones.
For more effective orange correction, a blue shampoo or toner is a better option. Blue is the direct opposite of orange on the color wheel and will neutralize the orange more effectively than purple shampoo. However, even blue shampoo may not be sufficient for severely orange hair, in which case a toner or dye is recommended.
When should I seek professional help for orange hair?
You should seek professional help for orange hair if you’ve tried DIY solutions and haven’t achieved the desired results, or if your hair is significantly damaged. A professional colorist can assess your hair’s condition, identify the underlying causes of the orange tones, and create a customized color correction plan to achieve your desired shade without causing further damage.
Attempting to correct the color yourself when your hair is damaged or if you’re unsure about the process can lead to uneven color, further damage, or even hair loss. A professional has the expertise and access to professional-grade products to safely and effectively correct your hair color while minimizing damage. They can also provide valuable advice on how to maintain your color and keep your hair healthy.