Many people experimenting with their hair color at home often wonder about the compatibility of different hair products. A common question is whether you can use a 30 volume developer with toner. The simple answer is generally no, and here’s why. Using a 30 volume developer with toner can lead to significant damage and undesirable color results. Understanding the purpose of each product and their interaction is crucial for achieving your desired hair color without compromising the health of your hair.
Understanding Hair Developer
Hair developer, also known as peroxide, is a crucial component in the hair coloring process. It’s an oxidizing agent that opens the hair cuticle, allowing the color molecules to penetrate and deposit within the hair shaft. The volume of the developer indicates its strength, which determines how much it lifts the hair’s natural pigment.
The Role of Developer Volume
Different developer volumes have different lifting capabilities. Lower volumes like 10 and 20 are typically used for depositing color or achieving minimal lift. They are gentler on the hair and minimize damage. Higher volumes, such as 30 and 40, are used for significant lightening, like achieving blonde or platinum shades. These are more aggressive and carry a higher risk of damage, especially if used improperly or on already compromised hair.
- 10 Volume: Deposits color, minimal lift, used for tone-on-tone coloring or covering grays with the same level or darker color.
- 20 Volume: Lifts 1-2 levels, used for covering grays or achieving a slightly lighter shade.
- 30 Volume: Lifts 2-3 levels, used for significant lightening.
- 40 Volume: Lifts 3-4 levels, used for drastic lightening. Use with caution as it can cause significant damage.
Why 30 Volume is Typically Used for Lightening
A 30 volume developer is generally used when you want to lift your hair color significantly. For example, if you have dark brown hair and want to achieve a medium blonde, you would likely need a 30 volume developer to lift the hair several levels. However, this strength comes at a cost. It’s important to assess the health and condition of your hair before using such a strong developer. If your hair is already damaged, using a 30 volume developer can cause breakage, dryness, and irreversible damage.
Understanding Toner
Toner is used to neutralize unwanted undertones in hair after it has been lightened. Often, after bleaching, hair can have yellow, orange, or red undertones. Toner deposits pigment to counteract these unwanted hues, resulting in a more balanced and aesthetically pleasing color.
The Purpose of Toner
Toner does not lift the hair. Its primary function is to deposit tone, not to lighten. Toners are designed to work on pre-lightened hair, meaning that the hair has already been lightened to the desired level. They contain pigments that cancel out unwanted tones, such as purple to neutralize yellow or blue to neutralize orange. This is why understanding the color wheel is so important when selecting a toner.
Why Toners Typically Use Low Volume Developers
Toners usually require a very low volume developer, such as a 10 volume or even a toner-specific developer which may be even lower. This is because the hair cuticle is already open from the bleaching process. A high volume developer is unnecessary and can actually damage the hair and cause the toner to grab unevenly, resulting in a patchy or muddy color.
The Dangers of Using 30 Volume Developer with Toner
Using a 30 volume developer with toner is generally not recommended due to the potential for significant damage and undesirable color results. Toner is formulated to deposit pigment, not lift the hair. A 30 volume developer is designed to lift, not deposit. This mismatch can lead to a variety of problems.
Over-Processing and Damage
The most significant risk is over-processing the hair. Toner is designed to be gentle and work on already lightened hair. Combining it with a strong developer like 30 volume can cause the hair cuticle to become excessively open and porous. This can result in dry, brittle hair that is prone to breakage. Over-processing can also lead to irreversible damage, requiring drastic measures like cutting off damaged sections.
Uneven Color Results
Using a 30 volume developer with toner can cause the toner to grab unevenly, leading to a patchy or muddy color. The strong developer can cause some areas of the hair to absorb the toner more quickly than others, resulting in an inconsistent color. This is especially problematic if you are trying to achieve a subtle or natural-looking tone.
Unpredictable Color Outcomes
The combination of a strong developer and toner can lead to unpredictable color outcomes. The developer might lift the hair further than intended, while the toner deposits an unexpected tone. This can result in a color that is completely different from what you were hoping to achieve. It is important to remember that toners are meant to correct tone, not lighten or drastically change color.
Alternatives to Using 30 Volume Developer with Toner
If you need to both lift and tone your hair, it’s best to do so in separate steps, using the appropriate products and developers for each process. Rushing the process or using the wrong products can lead to significant damage and disappointing results.
Lightening First, Then Toning
The safest and most effective approach is to lighten your hair to the desired level first, using the appropriate volume developer for your hair type and starting color. After lightening, assess the undertones in your hair and choose a toner that will effectively neutralize them. Use a low volume developer (10 volume or less) with your toner to avoid over-processing and achieve an even color.
Using a Color Depositing Shampoo or Conditioner
For subtle toning and color maintenance, consider using a color-depositing shampoo or conditioner. These products deposit small amounts of pigment with each use, helping to maintain your desired tone and prevent brassiness. They are a gentle alternative to traditional toners and can be used regularly without causing damage.
Seeking Professional Help
If you are unsure about the best way to achieve your desired hair color, it’s always a good idea to seek professional help. A professional colorist can assess your hair type, color, and condition, and recommend the best products and techniques to achieve your goals without compromising the health of your hair. They have the experience and expertise to handle complex color corrections and avoid common mistakes.
When Might a 30 Volume Developer *Seem* Appropriate?
There might be a situation where it appears like a 30 volume developer could be used with a product containing toner. This would only be in a situation where the product is actually a high-lift color designed to lighten and tone in one step. These products are formulated differently than straight toners and are meant to be used with higher volume developers.
High-Lift Colors vs. Toners
High-lift colors are designed to lighten several levels and deposit tone simultaneously. They contain a higher concentration of ammonia and peroxide than toners, allowing them to lift the hair’s natural pigment while also depositing color. These products are typically used on virgin hair or hair that has not been previously colored. Always read the product instructions carefully.
Understanding Product Labels
It’s crucial to read the product labels carefully and understand the intended use of each product. Toners are specifically designed for pre-lightened hair and should not be used with high volume developers unless specifically indicated by the manufacturer. High-lift colors are designed for lightening and toning in one step and will specify the appropriate developer volume. If you are unsure, consult a professional stylist.
Key Takeaways
- Never use a 30 volume developer with a traditional toner. This can lead to over-processing, damage, and uneven color results.
- Lighten your hair first, then tone it separately. Use the appropriate volume developer for each process.
- Consider using a color-depositing shampoo or conditioner for subtle toning and color maintenance.
- Read product labels carefully and understand the intended use of each product.
- When in doubt, seek professional help from a qualified colorist.
Protecting Your Hair After Coloring
Regardless of whether you are lightening, toning, or both, it is crucial to protect your hair after coloring. Coloring processes can strip the hair of its natural oils and moisture, leaving it dry, brittle, and prone to damage.
Deep Conditioning Treatments
Regular deep conditioning treatments can help to replenish moisture and strengthen the hair shaft. Look for deep conditioners that contain ingredients like keratin, amino acids, and natural oils. These ingredients can help to repair damage and improve the overall health and appearance of your hair.
Heat Protection
Heat styling can further damage colored hair. Always use a heat protectant spray before using any heat styling tools, such as blow dryers, flat irons, or curling irons. This will help to shield your hair from the damaging effects of heat.
Sulfate-Free Shampoos
Sulfate-free shampoos are gentler on colored hair than traditional shampoos. Sulfates can strip the hair of its natural oils and cause the color to fade more quickly. Sulfate-free shampoos will cleanse your hair without stripping it of its moisture or color.
Can I use a 30 volume developer with toner?
Using a 30 volume developer with toner is generally not recommended, and doing so can pose significant risks to the health and appearance of your hair. Toners are designed to neutralize unwanted tones, such as brassiness, after lightening. They contain a low amount of ammonia and are formulated to work with low volume developers, typically 10 or 20 volume, to gently deposit color without further lifting the hair.
A 30 volume developer is a much stronger oxidizing agent. When combined with toner, it can lift the hair’s cuticle, leading to unnecessary damage, dryness, and potential breakage. Moreover, it can cause the toner to process too quickly or unevenly, resulting in unpredictable and potentially undesirable color results. This can lead to issues like hot roots, banding, or a color that fades rapidly.
What are the risks of using a high volume developer like 30 with toner?
The primary risk is significant hair damage. A 30 volume developer lifts the hair cuticle quite aggressively, which is unnecessary when using a toner intended for depositing color, not lightening. This forceful lifting can weaken the hair strands, making them prone to breakage, split ends, and a generally unhealthy appearance. The increased porosity caused by the higher volume developer can also make it difficult for the hair to retain moisture, leading to dryness and frizz.
Beyond hair health, using a 30 volume developer with toner dramatically increases the chances of undesirable color results. The rapid and uncontrolled oxidation can cause the toner pigments to react unpredictably, leading to uneven color distribution, hot roots, or an overall tone that is far from the intended result. Correcting these mistakes often requires further chemical processing, which only compounds the initial damage.
What volume developer is recommended to use with toner?
The recommended developer volume for toner is typically 10 volume or 20 volume. A 10 volume developer is ideal for gentle toning and depositing color without significantly lifting the hair’s base. It’s the safest option for maintaining the integrity of already lightened or pre-lightened hair.
A 20 volume developer can be used if you need a slightly stronger push to deposit the toner or if you’re dealing with stubborn brassiness. However, it’s crucial to monitor the processing time closely and perform a strand test beforehand to ensure you achieve the desired color without over-processing or causing damage. Always prioritize lower volumes when using toners.
What are the signs of hair damage from using the wrong developer volume?
Signs of hair damage from using a developer that’s too strong can manifest in several ways. One of the most noticeable signs is increased dryness and brittleness. The hair may feel rough to the touch and be more prone to tangling. You might also observe more split ends and breakage, especially when brushing or styling your hair.
Another indicator is a change in the hair’s elasticity. Healthy hair stretches and returns to its original shape, but damaged hair may break or snap when pulled. Furthermore, you might notice increased frizz and a lack of shine. In more severe cases, the hair can become gummy or mushy when wet, indicating extreme protein damage.
Can I mix a 30 volume developer with a lower volume to dilute it for toner use?
While theoretically, mixing a 30 volume developer with a lower volume developer could create a weaker solution, this practice is strongly discouraged. It’s difficult to achieve a precise and consistent mixture, and even a small miscalculation can lead to unpredictable results and potential damage. The risks outweigh any perceived benefits of attempting this DIY dilution.
Instead of attempting to dilute a 30 volume developer, it is always safer and more effective to purchase the appropriate volume developer for your toner. 10 volume and 20 volume developers are readily available and formulated specifically for use with toners. Using the correct product from the start minimizes the risk of damage and ensures a more predictable and professional outcome.
What alternatives are there if I need a stronger lift than a toner can provide?
If you require a stronger lift than a toner can offer, consider using a proper hair lightener or bleach specifically formulated for that purpose. Lighteners are designed to lift the hair’s base color, allowing you to achieve the desired level of lightness before toning. However, it’s crucial to use them carefully and responsibly, following the manufacturer’s instructions and performing a strand test beforehand.
Another alternative is to seek professional assistance from a qualified hairstylist. A stylist can assess your hair’s condition, determine the appropriate lightening technique, and select the right products to achieve your desired result while minimizing damage. They can also provide personalized advice on how to maintain the health and integrity of your hair after the lightening process.
How can I prevent damage when using any developer on my hair?
Preventing damage when using any developer starts with understanding your hair’s condition and history. Assess whether your hair is already damaged from previous chemical treatments, heat styling, or environmental factors. If your hair is compromised, consider strengthening it with protein treatments or deep conditioning masks before using a developer.
Always perform a strand test before applying the developer to your entire head. This allows you to assess how your hair will react to the product and adjust the processing time accordingly. Avoid overlapping the developer onto previously treated hair, as this can lead to over-processing and breakage. Use a lower volume developer whenever possible, and follow the manufacturer’s instructions carefully, paying close attention to processing times and application techniques.