If you’ve recently undergone a hair colouring treatment, only to find that the results are not what you expected, you’re not alone. Many individuals face the frustration of their hair colour not taking as desired, leading to a range of emotions from disappointment to despair. Understanding the reasons behind this phenomenon is crucial for both salon professionals and at-home colour enthusiasts. In this article, we will delve into the world of hair colouring, exploring the science, techniques, and common pitfalls that can lead to less-than-desirable outcomes.
Introduction to Hair Colouring
Hair colouring is a complex process that involves altering the pigment of your hair to achieve a desired shade or hue. This can be done through various methods, including permanent, semi-permanent, and temporary colouring treatments. Each method has its own set of chemicals and procedures, all aimed at penetrating the hair shaft to either deposit or remove pigment. The success of a hair colouring treatment depends on several factors, including the type of hair, the condition of the hair, the chosen colour product, and the application technique.
Understanding Hair Structure
To comprehend why hair colour may not take as expected, it’s essential to understand the structure of the hair. Hair is made up of a protein called keratin and is composed of three layers: the medulla, the cortex, and the cuticle. The cortex is where the melanin, the pigment responsible for hair colour, is stored. The cuticle, the outermost layer, acts as a barrier that protects the hair and can influence how colour penetrates the hair shaft. The condition and porosity of the cuticle play significant roles in the hair colouring process, as they determine how easily colour can enter and be retained by the hair.
Porosity and Its Impact
Porosity refers to how well your hair can absorb and retain moisture and, in the context of hair colouring, colour. Hair with low porosity has a compact cuticle layer, making it difficult for colour to penetrate, while hair with high porosity has a more open cuticle layer, allowing for better colour absorption. However, hair that is too porous can also lead to colour fading quickly, as the colour molecules can escape easily. Therefore, understanding and managing hair porosity is crucial for achieving and maintaining the desired colour.
Reasons Why Hair Colour May Not Take
There are several reasons why hair colour may not take as expected. These can range from the inherent characteristics of the hair to the products and techniques used during the colouring process.
Incorrect Product Choice
Choosing the wrong hair colour product for your hair type or desired outcome is a common mistake. Using a product that is too light or too dark for your natural hair colour can lead to unsatisfactory results. Additionally, not considering the condition of the hair (damaged, over-processed, etc.) when selecting a product can also affect how well the colour takes.
Insufficient Processing Time
The processing time is critical in hair colouring. If the colour is not left on long enough, it may not fully penetrate the hair shaft, leading to weak or uneven colour. Conversely, leaving the colour on for too long can cause over-processing, damaging the hair and affecting its ability to hold colour.
Inadequate Pre-Colour Treatment
Pre-treating the hair before colouring can significantly impact the outcome. This includes treatments aimed at opening up the cuticle (such as bleaching or using a pre-colour treatment) to allow better colour penetration. Failing to properly prepare the hair can result in the colour not taking as well as it could.
Previous Colour Build-Up
For individuals who regularly colour their hair, previous colour build-up can be a significant obstacle. Layers of old colour can prevent new colour from penetrating evenly, leading to patchy or less vibrant results. In such cases, a colour correction or a process to remove previous colour may be necessary before applying new colour.
Techniques for Improving Colour Take
Improving how well hair colour takes involves a combination of proper preparation, the right choice of products, and skilled application techniques.
Pre-Colour Treatments and Conditioning
Before applying colour, pre-colour treatments can help open up the hair cuticle, allowing for better colour penetration. Additionally, deep conditioning treatments can improve the overall health and porosity of the hair, making it more receptive to colour.
Customized Colour Formulas
Working with a professional stylist to create a customized colour formula can make a significant difference. A formula tailored to your specific hair type, condition, and desired outcome can help achieve more consistent and vibrant results.
Post-Colour Care
After colouring, how you care for your hair can impact how long the colour lasts and how vibrant it remains. Using colour-protecting shampoos and conditioners, minimizing heat styling, and reducing exposure to sunlight can all help in maintaining the health and colour of the hair.
Conclusion
Achieving the perfect hair colour is a nuanced process that involves understanding the science of hair, choosing the right products, and employing skilled techniques. When hair colour does not take as expected, it can be due to a variety of factors, from the inherent characteristics of the hair to mistakes in the colouring process. By recognizing these factors and taking steps to address them, individuals can work towards achieving their desired hair colour. Whether you’re a professional stylist or an at-home colour enthusiast, education, patience, and the right approach are key to unlocking the full potential of your hair colouring endeavors. Remember, every head of hair is unique, and what works for one person may not work for another. Therefore, it’s essential to approach each colouring process with an open mind, a willingness to learn, and a commitment to achieving the best possible results.
For further personalized advice and solutions, consulting with a professional hairstylist can provide tailored guidance and treatments to address specific hair colour challenges and aspirations. With the right knowledge, products, and techniques, anyone can overcome the obstacles and achieve the hair colour of their dreams.
What are the most common reasons why hair colour may not take?
When it comes to hair colour not taking, there are several reasons that could be contributing to the issue. One of the most common reasons is the presence of a barrier on the hair shaft, such as product buildup or mineral deposits. This can prevent the colour from penetrating the hair properly, resulting in a lackluster finish. Additionally, the porosity of the hair can also play a role, as hair with low porosity may not be able to absorb the colour as well as hair with higher porosity. Other factors, such as the type of colour used, the developer volume, and the processing time, can also impact the final result.
To overcome these issues, it’s essential to start with a clean slate by clarifying the hair to remove any product buildup or mineral deposits. This can be done using a clarifying shampoo or a pre-colour treatment. It’s also important to choose a colour that is suitable for the hair type and porosity, and to follow the instructions carefully. Using a higher developer volume or increasing the processing time may also help to achieve the desired result. However, it’s crucial to consult with a professional stylist to determine the best course of action, as over-processing can cause damage to the hair.
How does hair porosity affect the colouring process?
Hair porosity refers to the hair’s ability to absorb and retain moisture and other substances, including hair colour. Hair with low porosity has a compact cuticle layer that prevents the colour from penetrating the hair shaft, resulting in a lack of colour uptake. On the other hand, hair with high porosity has a more open cuticle layer that allows the colour to penetrate more easily, resulting in a more vibrant finish. Understanding hair porosity is essential in achieving the desired colour result, as it can help determine the best colouring technique and product to use.
To determine hair porosity, a simple test can be done by dropping a single strand of hair into a glass of water. If the hair sinks quickly, it has high porosity, while hair that floats or sinks slowly has low porosity. Once the porosity is determined, a stylist can tailor the colouring process to achieve the best results. For example, hair with low porosity may require a pre-colour treatment to open up the cuticle layer, while hair with high porosity may require a colour with a lower volume developer to prevent over-processing. By taking into account hair porosity, stylists can help achieve a more predictable and desirable colour outcome.
Can using the wrong developer volume affect the colour result?
Using the wrong developer volume can indeed affect the colour result, as it can impact the amount of lift and the tone of the colour. Developer volume refers to the amount of hydrogen peroxide in the developer, which helps to open up the cuticle layer and allow the colour to penetrate the hair shaft. If the developer volume is too low, the colour may not penetrate the hair properly, resulting in a lackluster finish. On the other hand, if the developer volume is too high, it can cause over-processing, leading to damage and an undesirable tone.
The right developer volume depends on the type of colour being used, the hair type and porosity, and the desired result. For example, a higher developer volume may be necessary for virgin hair or for achieving a lighter shade, while a lower developer volume may be more suitable for previously coloured hair or for achieving a more subtle tone. It’s essential to follow the instructions provided with the colour and to consult with a professional stylist to determine the best developer volume for the specific hair type and desired result. By using the correct developer volume, stylists can help achieve a more predictable and desirable colour outcome.
How can product buildup affect the hair colouring process?
Product buildup can significantly affect the hair colouring process, as it can create a barrier on the hair shaft that prevents the colour from penetrating the hair properly. This can result in a lackluster finish, uneven colour distribution, and a shorter colour lifespan. Product buildup can come from a variety of sources, including styling products, shampoos, and conditioners. When these products are not properly rinsed out of the hair, they can leave behind a residue that can interfere with the colouring process.
To minimize the impact of product buildup on the hair colouring process, it’s essential to use a clarifying shampoo before colouring to remove any residual product. Additionally, using a pre-colour treatment can help to open up the cuticle layer and allow the colour to penetrate more easily. It’s also important to choose colour products that are formulated to work with the specific hair type and porosity, and to follow the instructions carefully. By taking steps to minimize product buildup and using the right products, stylists can help achieve a more vibrant and longer-lasting colour result.
Can mineral deposits in the water affect the hair colour result?
Mineral deposits in the water can indeed affect the hair colour result, as they can deposit onto the hair shaft and interfere with the colouring process. Minerals such as iron, copper, and calcium can cause the colour to appear dull, brassy, or uneven, and can also affect the colour’s lifespan. This is especially true for individuals who use well water or live in areas with hard water, as these types of water tend to have higher mineral content.
To minimize the impact of mineral deposits on the hair colour result, it’s essential to use a water filter or a product that is designed to remove mineral deposits from the hair. Additionally, using a colour product that is formulated to work with mineral-rich water can help to achieve a more desirable result. It’s also important to follow the instructions carefully and to consult with a professional stylist to determine the best course of action. By taking steps to minimize the impact of mineral deposits, stylists can help achieve a more vibrant and longer-lasting colour result.
How can I determine if my hair is resistant to colour?
Determining if your hair is resistant to colour can be done through a simple test, known as a strand test. This involves applying the colour to a small section of hair and processing it according to the instructions. If the colour does not take, or if it appears uneven or faded, it may be a sign that the hair is resistant to colour. Other signs of resistant hair include a lack of porosity, a compact cuticle layer, and a history of colour treatments that have not produced the desired result.
To overcome resistant hair, it’s essential to use a pre-colour treatment to open up the cuticle layer and allow the colour to penetrate more easily. Additionally, using a colour product that is specifically formulated for resistant hair can help to achieve a more desirable result. It’s also important to follow the instructions carefully and to consult with a professional stylist to determine the best course of action. By taking steps to overcome resistant hair, stylists can help achieve a more vibrant and longer-lasting colour result. With patience and the right techniques, even the most resistant hair can be coloured successfully.